Brasseries may on the rise in these parts, but le saint amour is giving the others a run for their euro, with that je ne sais quoi.
the culver city digs take you back to that evening along the champs-élysées. in true french fashion rattan bistro chairs and sweet tables pour deux (maybe quatre) outfit the patio. don't be surprised if you feel compelled to light a gitane ciggie to accompany your vin blanc, after all, this is culver cum paris. inside is equally authentic: classic rouge booths, delicate window trimmings, a large bustling kitchen and a chef with that unmistakable french flair. call him the yves montand of the kitsch set. he may not sing, but exec chef bruno herve commereuc's (of angelique café) merguez et carottes au cumin, rich, buttery escargots, boudin noir and pintade au foie gras are liable have you humming. regional wines from bordeaux, the rhone valley and the loire valley grace the wine list. you'll find some bubbles in there, too (hello, feuillatte). a meal here might stretch for hours, but you'll survive with the help of the attractive french-speaking waiters. all you're missing are the frequent flyer miles (and a sarkozy sighting).
that's amour. le saint amour. 9725 culver boulevard. at duguesne. culver city. 310.842.8155. www.lesaintamour.com
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